The Roman fort of Cumidava stood on a terrace near the village of Vulcan, just west of Râșnov, at the southern end of the Bârsa Land, guarding the route from Transylvania through the mountains to Wallachia. It was one of the forts on the eastern frontier of Roman Dacia, and its name, recorded on an inscription, is believed to be Dacian in origin. The site is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacia, added to the UNESCO list in 2024. Little stands above ground, but the setting, with the mountains rising to the south, makes it clear why the Romans chose this spot.
Râșnov itself is dominated by a peasant citadel on a hill above the town, a fortress built by the Saxon villagers in the Middle Ages to protect themselves from raids. Inside the walls, houses, a school and a chapel were built so that families could live there during sieges. A deep well in the courtyard, according to legend, was dug by Turkish prisoners over many years in exchange for their freedom. The view from the citadel over the Bârsa plain and the mountains is superb.
A few kilometres south lies Bran Castle, marketed as Dracula's castle, though its connection with Vlad the Impaler is tenuous. It is crowded, commercial and fun, perched on a rock above the road. Beyond Bran, the road climbs over a pass to Câmpulung, through the villages of Moieciu and Fundata, with meadows, haystacks and views of the Bucegi and Piatra Craiului mountains, one of the most beautiful landscapes in Romania. Brașov, the main city of the area, has a charming medieval centre and the Black Church, the largest Gothic church in the region.
The riding is excellent, with mountain roads, passes and villages, and plenty of bends. The roads around Bran can be congested with tourist traffic, especially on weekends. Surfaces are mostly good on main roads, more variable on minor ones, and livestock and dogs are common. Bears are present in the forests and sometimes come close to towns, so take care.
Vulcan and Râșnov have fuel and shops, and Brașov has everything. Try a plate of mici, grilled minced meat rolls, or a bowl of bean soup served in a bread bowl, with a glass of local beer after the ride.