Rapperswil sits on a little promontory on the northern shore of Lake Zurich, joined to the other side by a long causeway and a wooden footbridge, and it has the feel of a town that knows it looks good and does not need to say so. About thirty-five thousand people live in Rapperswil-Jona, though the old town is compact, with a castle above, arcaded lanes below and a harbour full of boats. After the Hulftegg and its farm roads, it is a pleasing place to come down to.
The castle holds an unexpected story. In the nineteenth century, Polish exiles who had fled their country after failed uprisings against Russian rule made Rapperswil their base, and in 1870 they founded a Polish national museum in the castle, preserving documents and relics for a country that did not then exist on the map. The museum eventually moved on, but a Polish connection remains in the town, and a column in the castle square honours Polish heroes. The town is also known as the town of roses, with several rose gardens, and from the promenade on a summer evening you can see the Glarus Alps lined up across the lake.
The ride into Rapperswil from the hills is easy and agreeable, with winding roads through orchards and meadows above the lake, and long views across the water. Surfaces are good, and traffic is moderate, though weekends can be crowded around the lake. Weather can change quickly in the Pre-Alps, and the lake has its own breezes. Early evening is ideal, when the light turns gold, the streets fill with people and the cafes put out their tables.
As a food stop, Rapperswil is an easy choice. There are lakeside restaurants serving fresh perch fillets, called Egli, with fries and sauce, and bakeries selling Zurich-area pastries, and in the old town small cafes serve coffee and cake. Fuel is available at several stations in town and in neighbouring Jona. Parking can be tight in the old town, but motorcycles can usually find a space near the harbour. A short walk along the wooden bridge, over the water, is the best digestif.