Ranni's forests are the kind of mixed evergreen and moist deciduous woodland that once covered much of Kerala, with teak and rosewood, wild jackfruit and rubber plantations in the lower reaches. The Pamba flows down from the hills through Ranni town toward the backwaters, and every winter its banks are crowded with pilgrims heading up to the Sabarimala shrine, a journey of faith that has shaped the road network here. The town itself is a small market place, with a bus stand, a bridge over the river and rows of shops selling bananas, spices and rubber sheets.
For a rider, this side of Kerala is soft and green rather than dramatic. Roads run through coconut palms and rubber trees in long, easy curves, over small bridges and past roadside shrines, and with traffic mild in the mornings it is relaxing. The climb toward the hills is gradual, giving shaded views over valley paddies, and in the monsoon the roads are slick with leaves and rain. Buses are the main hazard, taking the middle of the road, and the pilgrim season from November to January brings a long procession of vehicles.
Ranni itself, to the west in Kerala, is well supplied with petrol pumps and small restaurants serving fish curry and rice or fried banana. Forest areas may need permits to enter, and the Forest Department can tell you which tracks are open. Bring rain gear, because showers arrive quickly, and carry your documents as police checks are routine.