It is a striking frontier: on one bank, Chinese towers and tourist boats; on the other, small farms, fishermen and a few watchtowers. The river is quiet, wide and slow here, and on a misty morning the contrast is haunting.
The tombs belong to Koguryo, the ancient kingdom that ruled much of Manchuria and the Korean peninsula from the first century BC until 668. Its second capital was here, and around Ji'an are hundreds of burial mounds, some of them stone pyramids, others earth-covered chambers with painted walls. The paintings show hunting scenes, dancers, guardians and the daily life of the elite, in colours that have survived for fifteen centuries. Ranmou and Huanwen are among the mural tombs that can be seen, and they are part of a UNESCO listing from 2004.
A practical note: this is not an easy ride for a foreign visitor. China does not generally allow foreign motorcyclists to ride their own bikes without elaborate permits and a guide, and the North Korean side is closed to independent travel, so most visitors come by train or car, or on an organised tour. If you do plan to travel here, check the rules carefully and arrange everything before you go. The region is cold in winter, with long frozen months, and warm and green in summer.
Fuel and services are in Manp'o on the far side and in Ji'an on this side, a city with hotels, restaurants and shops. The local food is Korean-Chinese, with cold noodles, dumplings and grilled meat. The best season is early autumn, with clear skies and the first colour in the hills. Take a warm layer in the evening, and look across the river, where the other country begins.