Rangipo is called a desert, and it is not one. It is a high volcanic plateau in the centre of the North Island, lying in the rain shadow of the volcanoes, so that it gets far less rain than the land around it, and its soils are poor, stony and fast-draining. The result is a bleak, wide landscape of tussock, red-brown scrub and black lava gravel, with the cone of Ruapehu rising to the west and the long ridge of Kaimanawa to the east. It is a place of long horizons and heavy skies, and the road across it, the Desert Road, is one of the best-known in New Zealand.
State Highway 1 climbs here to about 1,074 metres, the highest point on the national highway network, and it can be dramatic. In summer the road is dry and fast, with long, gentle bends and open views, and the wind can be fierce, especially from the west. In winter it is a different story. Snow, ice and sudden whiteouts close the road without much notice, and drivers sometimes spend hours waiting for it to reopen. Check the road status before you set out, carry warm clothing and chains if appropriate, and do not trust a clear morning in Taupo to predict what you will find on top.
Much of the land on the east side of the road is a military training area, used by the New Zealand Defence Force, and you will see signs warning of live firing and unexploded ordnance, and warning you to stay on the road. Do not stray into it. The tussock and scrub shelter a number of rare plants and insects, and the area is protected for its conservation value, in contrast to its bleak appearance. Native falcons hunt over the plain, and the sky at night is clear and full of stars.
Services are few. Waiouru, at the southern end, is a small town with about 1,300 people, an army museum and some fuel and food. Turangi, to the north, is a bit bigger and has more, and it is wise to fill up at one or the other before you start the crossing. There are a few lay-bys but no shops on the road itself. Long straight sections tempt drivers to speed, and the police are known to watch this stretch, so keep to the limits and enjoy the scenery.