Rânca is a ski village at the foot of the Parâng mountains, built on an alpine meadow that was grazing country for shepherds long before anyone put in a chairlift. It sits at around sixteen hundred metres on the southern side of the Transalpina, the high road that crosses the Southern Carpathians, and from here the road to the pass above takes off in earnest. The village is a scatter of chalets, guesthouses and cafés in the middle of grassy slopes and spruce woods, and in summer the main sounds are cowbells and the odd chainsaw.
Transalpina is a road with a history. It follows an old shepherds' track that was improved as a military route in the twentieth century, and for decades it was known only to locals. Modern asphalt turned it into one of Romania's best-known mountain roads, running from the foothills near Novaci up through meadows and forests to open alpine ridges. The surface is generally smooth, though frost heaves and potholes show up in places, and the bends are long and rhythmic. Sheep and cows on the road are not unusual, and a shepherd's dog will sometimes bark at passing bikes.
Weather changes the whole experience. On a clear summer morning, the mountains glow and you can see ridgelines for miles, while on a wet afternoon the cloud sits down over the meadows and the air turns cold. Snow closes the higher sections for much of the year, and the road typically opens only in summer; check before you go. Bring warm layers even in July, since temperatures drop quickly with altitude.
Novaci, about thirteen kilometres down the valley, is the nearest proper town, and it has fuel, shops and restaurants, so fill the tank there before you climb. In Rânca itself there are pensions and restaurants serving grilled meat, polenta, soups and a dish called tochitură, a rich pork stew; there is also usually cheese from local shepherds, salty and smoky and good with bread. Prices are reasonable and the portions generous.
Spend a little time walking on the meadow above the village. The air is clear, flowers are thick in June, and you can look up at the high ridge you are about to ride and decide whether the weather will let you.