Raftsundet is the narrow strait between the islands of Hinnøya and Austvågøya, and it is the gateway to Lofoten from the east. The strait is about twenty kilometres long and in places only a few hundred metres wide, with steep mountains rising on both sides, and it is the route taken by the Hurtigruten coastal ferries. The famous Trollfjord, a short, narrow side fjord with sheer walls, opens from the strait, and ships sail in to turn around. The nearest towns are Melbu, Stokmarknes and Svolvær, each a short ride away, so fuel and food are not a worry.
The riding in this part of Nordland is superb. The road crosses the Raftsund bridge, a graceful, slender structure, and then runs along the edge of the island with views of the peaks of Lofoten across the water. The surface is good, the bends are frequent but gentle, and the scenery is among the finest in Europe: jagged, snow-streaked mountains rising straight out of the sea, reflected in calm water on still days. Weather can be wild, with rain, wind and low cloud, but when it clears, the light is spectacular. In summer, the midnight sun lasts from late May to mid-July.
The history of the strait is bound up with fishing. For centuries, the cod fishing season, from January to April, drew thousands of fishermen to Lofoten, and the fish was dried on racks and exported to Italy, Spain and Portugal, where stockfish remains a delicacy. The old fishing villages, with their red rorbu huts, are a feature of the landscape. The sea eagle is the largest bird of prey in Europe, and you can see them in the strait, sometimes in numbers.
Fuel is available in the nearby towns, and the road is well served, but in the quieter areas, plan carefully. Svolvær has everything from supermarkets to restaurants, and in smaller villages, you will find small shops and cafes. In summer, the roads are busier with campervans, so ride early or late. A stop to look at the water, in the long evening light, is the best plan for this stretch.