Above the Bregava river valley, a few kilometres from Stolac in Herzegovina, a hillside is covered with huge stone slabs that look like sarcophagi and tilting boxes. These are stećci, medieval tombstones that were carved in Bosnia, Herzegovina, Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, and Radimlja is the best known cemetery of them. Over a hundred of them stand here, and several carry reliefs of exceptional quality, showing hunting scenes, riders with spears, dancing in a circle, stylised crescent moons, spirals and vines. In 2016 UNESCO listed a group of these sites together.
Who made them is a question of much debate. People used to link them to the Bosnian Church, sometimes called Bogomil, but modern scholarship shows that Catholics and Orthodox Christians were buried under them too, and that they were a regional fashion among all communities. What is certain is that the carvers were skilled and that the hillside was a place the living chose to commemorate their dead. The weather has been kind in places and cruel in others, and some of the stones are covered in lichen.
The setting is classic Herzegovina, with dry limestone hills, vineyards, fig trees and pomegranates, the Bregava running clear and green. The roads from Mostar and from Čapljina to Stolac are decent and quiet, with gentle curves and good views, and in the cooler season they are a delight. Surfaces are generally paved, though patched, and there is some goat traffic. Summers are fiercely hot and dry, with a strong sun, so aim for spring or autumn, and go early or late in the day.
Stolac, about three kilometres away, is a small town of some seven thousand with fuel, cafés, and a little old quarter, and a good place for a coffee, grilled meat, or a slice of burek. Čapljina and Mostar offer more services, and Mostar is about forty kilometres to the north, with its famous reconstructed bridge. The area was badly damaged in the 1990s war, and some buildings still show scars. Entry to the necropolis is typically free, but facilities are minimal, so bring water and a hat. Carry vehicle papers and a green card for border crossings in the region.