There is a small triangle of country in the Alt Maestrat, between Benassal, Catí and Albocàsser, where the hills fold into narrow ravines and the stone walls of old terraces climb every slope. Racó d'en Gil, a name meaning something like Gil's corner, lies in this landscape, and it sits within easy reach of the Valltorta gorge, the place that put Levantine rock art on the map.
The Valltorta shelters came to light in the early twentieth century and became famous for their scenes of archers hunting deer, wild goats and boar, painted with extraordinary movement and detail. The museum at Tírig, close by, explains the art and organises guided visits to some shelters. Racó d'en Gil and the many other sites in these ravines fill out a whole prehistoric landscape: dozens of shelters, each with a few figures, scattered along the gorges.
The villages are full of character. Benassal has an old walled centre and a mineral water spring, the Font d'en Segures, whose water is bottled. Catí is a lovely stone village with a Gothic church and a reputation for cheese. Albocàsser and Tírig are small farming communities in the dry hills, and Culla, a little to the south, crowns a hilltop with grand views.
The riding is excellent. The CV roads linking these villages are narrow and wind across the hills with countless bends, mostly gentle but sometimes tight, through olive and almond groves and over little passes. Traffic is light and the surfaces vary from smooth new tarmac to old and patched. The Maestrat sits at between five hundred and over a thousand metres, so it can be surprisingly cold in winter, and summer storms can bring sudden downpours. Late spring, when the hills are green and the wildflowers bloom, is ideal.
The villages have bars and small shops, but there are few petrol stations. Alcalà de Xivert, about twenty-eight kilometres away near the coast, is the nearest larger town, but you will also find fuel along the CV-10 corridor. Plan your loop with fuel in mind, and stop at a village bar for a slice of local cured ham and a glass of wine.