In the early 1960s, the Lebanese government invited the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer to design an international fairground for Tripoli, the country's second city. He produced a vast, futuristic complex of sweeping concrete forms: a huge boomerang-shaped exhibition hall, a dome for experimental theatre, an open-air theatre, a helipad, a water tower and more, all set in a park on the edge of the city. Construction was almost finished when the civil war broke out in 1975, and the fair was never completed. Today the site stands as an extraordinary, melancholy monument to modernist ambition and lost hope, and it was listed by UNESCO in 2023, immediately placed on the list of heritage in danger.
Walking among the empty concrete structures, with weeds growing through the cracks and the sound of the city in the distance, is an unforgettable experience. The forms are elegant and daring, typical of Niemeyer's style, and they seem to float above the ground. Parts of the site have been restored, and one building has been converted into a design centre, but much remains in a state of decay.
Tripoli itself is a fascinating city, often overlooked by visitors. Its old city has one of the most important collections of Mamluk architecture in the region, with mosques, madrasas, hammams and caravanserais, and its labyrinthine souks are full of life, selling soap, gold, spices and sweets. The Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, a Crusader fortress rebuilt many times, overlooks the city. Tripoli is famous for its sweets, especially knafeh, a cheese pastry soaked in syrup, and the sweet shops are an institution.
Riding in Lebanon is chaotic, with heavy traffic, aggressive driving and few rules followed, but the rewards include stunning mountain roads, such as the climb from Tripoli to Bcharré and the Qadisha valley with its ancient cedars and rock-cut monasteries, a short ride to the southeast. Fuel and services are widely available in the city. Before travelling, check the current security situation and your government's travel advice, as conditions in Lebanon can change quickly, and some areas may be unsafe.