The Vero valley does not look like a place that hides a great deal. The river runs through low hills of oak and box, and the cliffs that line its banks are warm orange and pale grey, but the way the rock folds into small overhangs is what attracted the people who painted here thousands of years ago. Quizáns II, three kilometres from Alquézar, is one of those shelters, part of the Mediterranean Basin rock art listed by UNESCO in 1998.
What gives the valley its feel is the combination of dry land and steady water. The Vero is not a large river, but it runs clear, with pools of green and blue, and in summer people swim in the places where the road runs beside it. Kingfishers, dippers and herons live along its banks, and the oak woods above are full of jays and woodpeckers. Wild boar are common, although rarely seen. The smell of box and thyme is strong after rain.
The roads in this part of Aragon are lovely for slow riding. The lane from Alquézar toward the shelters is narrow and winding, with tight bends, loose gravel and the odd stray sheep. The wider roads from Barbastro offer longer, easier curves, with good views of the foothills and the far white line of the Pyrenees. Midsummer afternoons are very hot, and autumn is mild, with golden light through the oaks. Winter can be cold, and ice forms in the shade of the gorge.
Alquézar's cafés and restaurants make a good base for a day, but fuel is a question for Barbastro, twenty kilometres away, which has everything a rider needs, including a cathedral and a lively old quarter. The ride also takes in the Church of Santa Maria de l'Assumpció, in a very different village, so there is variety in the day.
Try the local olive oil, which is peppery and green, drizzled on toasted bread with tomato, and a plate of cured ham. Spring and early autumn are the best seasons for riding, walking and swimming.