Ervamoira is a wine estate with an unusual extra, a small archaeological museum, and that is the reason to come. It is a modest place, but it adds a human dimension to a landscape that is usually associated with much older, wilder art.
The estate is also a good lesson in how the Douro works. The vines stand on terraces on steep slopes, in thin schist soil, with the Côa running below, and each plot has its own sun angle and microclimate. Grapes ripen late in the long, hot summer, and in September the harvest begins. Some wine estates in the region offer tastings, and a few, including this one, arrange visits that combine wine with a tour of the rock art, if booked ahead. It is a sensible way to see both in one day.
Beyond the estate, the Côa valley is a remote, wild country of stone, scrub and sky. The hills are covered in rockrose and thyme, and the smell on a hot day is intoxicating. Eagles and vultures ride the thermals, and the river runs low in summer and high after the winter rains. Villages are small and old, with granite houses and bread ovens, and the people are friendly and curious about visitors.
For riders, the lanes to the quinta are steep and narrow, with loose stone in places and tight hairpins, and the tarmac is patchy. Take your time, and if the track looks too rough, park and walk. The summer heat is severe, so plan for the morning, and carry water. In the dry season, fires are possible, and roads may be closed. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for the ride.
Fuel is available in Vila Nova de Foz Côa, about eight kilometres away, which has stations, shops and cafes, and Mêda, farther away, has a smaller supply. There are no stations near the estate.
Ring ahead before visiting, since opening hours may vary with the season. A glass of the estate's wine on the terrace is the right way to finish.