Out in the high country west of Latacunga the farms get smaller, the fields steeper, and the road begins to climb towards the great barren plateau of the western cordillera. This section runs through open paramo and patchwork fields, with the horizon scored by deep valleys. The towns of Pujili and Saquisili lie behind, a day's walk if you had to, but at the pace of a bike they are far enough that fuel is a real concern. Check the tank, because little is on offer here.
Indigenous communities live along this road, mostly Kichwa people who farm potatoes, barley and quinoa on slopes that would defeat anyone else. Their houses, built of adobe and thatch, sit among the terraces, and women in felt hats and bright shawls walk the road with children and loads. The Tigua area further along is known for its paintings, brightly coloured scenes of village life painted on sheepskin, which began as a local art and are now sold across the country. If you meet a gallery open at the roadside, it is a rewarding stop.
The riding is gently demanding. The road is generally paved or well-compacted, with sweeping gradients and the odd stretch of loose gravel, and it twists along the shoulder of the valleys. Dogs, sheep and cattle wander onto the road, so keep the speed down in villages, and slow for blind bends. In the wet season, landslides and potholes appear without warning, particularly after heavy rain, and visibility can drop in cloud.
The altitude, above three thousand metres, means chilly mornings and sharp winds, and the sun burns even when the air is cold. Take a good layer, gloves and a neck warmer. Local food is simple and sustaining: potato soup, corn and cheese, with a glass of hot sweet tea, a good treat when you reach a village. The mood is calm, a kind of slow Andean rhythm, and the sky seems very large. Keep an eye on the weather, because storms can build quickly in the afternoon.