The lake is long, deep and glacial, a cold turquoise in summer, with steep brown hills falling to its shores and snow-capped peaks beyond. The air here is clear, the silence is deep, and the only sounds are wind, water and birdsong.
The Makarora valley, which runs north from the head of the lake, is the first stage of the Haast Pass route, and beech forest, braided rivers and open flats line the road. The Māori used the pass as a route to the west coast for pounamu, and early explorers followed in the 1860s. The mountains of the Southern Alps are formed by the collision of two tectonic plates and are still rising, at several millimetres a year, while erosion wears them down.
The ride on the road to the pass is magnificent, and a swim in the lake is a bracing way to break it. The water is glacial and cold, rarely above fifteen degrees even in summer, but on a warm afternoon it is wonderfully refreshing. Look for shingle beaches with easy access, and stay close to the shore. Trout fishing is also popular, and the rivers are clear, with fish visible in the pools.
For fuel, fill in Wānaka before heading north, since there are no stations on the road until the west coast. Makarora has a small shop and cafe. Sandflies are fierce near water, so carry repellent. Winter can bring snow and ice, and the road may require chains, so check conditions before you go. In summer, the long evenings are warm, and the light on the mountains lasts well into the night.