The lake itself is a deep blue, ringed with brown hills in summer and white peaks in winter, and it is smaller and quieter than its neighbour, Lake Wānaka, which lies just across a low neck of land. The lake level was raised in the 1950s by a dam at its outlet, drowning old shorelines and giving the water its present form.
The Haast Pass Highway, State Highway 6, runs along the lake's edge before climbing into the mountains, and it is one of the great rides of the South Island. From Hawea, the road follows the lake's shore with moderate bends and views across the water, then passes through the settlement of Makarora and climbs over the Haast Pass, at five hundred and sixty-three metres, one of the lowest crossings of the Southern Alps. On the western side, the road drops through rainforest to the coast, with waterfalls and gorges on the way.
The mountains here are the heart of the Southern Alps, with snow on the peaks for much of the year and glaciers in the highest basins. The Hunter valley, behind the lake, is a remote area of tussock, beech forest and braided rivers, with a few huts for hikers and anglers. The air is clear and cold, and the water in the lake is glacial, so swimming is brisk, even in the middle of summer. A dip in the shallows on a hot day is a good way to wake up.
For fuel, fill in Wānaka or Hawea before heading toward the pass, as supplies on the road are limited. Makarora has a small shop and cafe, and the next stations are on the west coast, a long way off. In winter, ice and snow can affect the road, and sandflies on the west side can be fierce in summer, so carry repellent. Spring and autumn offer the best light, and the colours of the larches in May are striking.