The Quebrada de las Conchas is a canyon cut by the Río de las Conchas through the red rock of the Calchaquí valleys, in Salta province, and the road that follows it, Ruta 68, is one of the great scenic rides in Argentina. The rock is sedimentary, laid down in ancient seas and lakes and later uplifted and eroded by wind and water, so that it stands in curved layers of red, orange, pink and ochre. Over time, the elements have carved it into shapes that have been given names: the Devil's Throat, a narrow gorge, the Amphitheatre, a vast natural bowl with extraordinary acoustics, and the Castles, a row of jagged towers.
The ride from Salta to Cafayate, through the canyon, is smooth and enjoyable. The road is paved and in good condition, with long, curving bends, gentle gradients and plenty of viewpoints where you can pull off. It follows the dry riverbed, crossing it on small bridges, and the colours change with the light, with the best views in the early morning and late afternoon. Traffic is moderate, with tour buses and cars, and the main hazards are the occasional rock on the road after a storm and strong winds in the afternoon. In summer, the rains can bring flash floods and landslides, so check conditions.
Cafayate, about twenty-six kilometres away, is the nearest town, with fuel, shops, restaurants and hotels. It is also the centre of one of the highest wine regions in the world, famous for its Torrontés, a fragrant white wine that suits the dry heat. Many bodegas offer tastings, and a glass of cold white after a day in the canyon is a fine reward.
The landscape feels like a Western film set, with dusty light, red cliffs and cardón cacti on the slopes. Condors sometimes ride the air above, and in the quiet side canyons you can hear the sound of your own boots. Walk a few metres from the road at one of the viewpoints, touch the warm rock, and listen to the wind carry sand over the stones. It is a place where geology becomes visible, and a ride that is very hard to forget.