Quebec City is the only walled city north of Mexico, and the old town, perched on a rock above the St Lawrence, still has the feel of a French provincial capital transplanted to North America. The city was founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608, and the narrow cobbled lanes, stone houses and steep stairs of the lower town retain the layout of the first settlement. The Château Frontenac, the grand hotel with its copper roofs that dominates the skyline, was built in 1893 and is among the most photographed hotels in the world.
History is everywhere. In 1759, on the Plains of Abraham just outside the walls, British forces under General Wolfe defeated the French under Montcalm in a battle that lasted barely half an hour and decided the future of Canada. Both commanders died of their wounds. The grassy plains are now a park used for picnics and concerts. The people here are proudly French-speaking, and you will hear a distinct accent and a good deal of humour. A few words of French go a long way.
The ride starts here and heads east along the north shore of the St Lawrence into Charlevoix, a region of folded mountains, meteor-crater geology and small villages. Route 138 climbs and dips along the river, with wide views of the water and Île d'Orléans, the island where farmers have grown strawberries and apples since the seventeenth century. Further on, Baie-Saint-Paul has art galleries and a lively food scene, and the roads near Les Éboulements are twisty and rewarding.
Riding in the old town itself is a different matter. Streets are cobbled and steep, and in rain the stones become treacherous. Parking a bike is easiest outside the walls, and the old town is best explored on foot. A funicular links the upper and lower town and is a good use of a few minutes.
Fuel and food are no problem in a city of this size, and the restaurants range from simple crêperies to grand dining rooms. Poutine, maple taffy and tourtière are local specialties. Summer is busy and festive, while winter brings deep snow and bitter cold that make riding impossible.