North of Qazvin, the Alborz mountains rise in a wall of rock between the Iranian plateau and the Caspian Sea, and in their valleys, a thousand years ago, a sect of Nizari Ismailis, known in the West as the Assassins, built a network of castles on mountaintops. The most famous, Alamut, was the base of Hassan-i Sabbah, the founder of the order, who captured it in 1090. The Qostinlar fortification is one of the lesser-known strongholds in the region, part of a system of castles and watchtowers that defended the valleys.
The Nizari Ismailis were a branch of Shia Islam, and they held their castles for over a century and a half, resisting the Seljuk sultans and gaining a reputation for targeted killings of their enemies, which gave rise to the legends of the Assassins. The Mongols destroyed their castles in 1256. Today the ruins are scattered on rocky peaks above the valleys, and Alamut itself, on a steep rock, is reached by a long climb on foot. The landscape is wild and beautiful, with deep gorges, rivers and terraced fields.
Riding to the Alamut valley from Qazvin means crossing a mountain pass on a winding road, with tight bends and steep gradients, and views back over the plain. The roads have improved in recent years, but surfaces can still be rough in places, and landslides and rockfalls can occur. The climate in the mountains is cooler than on the plain, with snow in winter. Foreign travellers in Iran face particular requirements, including visas and, for vehicles, a Carnet de Passages, and the situation for visitors can change, so check current advice before planning a trip.
Qazvin, about twenty-eight kilometres away, is a city of three hundred thousand with fuel and all services. Fuel in Iran has long been very cheap. The villages in the Alamut valley have basic services and guesthouses. Persian food is a delight: kebabs, rice dishes, stews such as ghormeh sabzi, and fresh bread. Iranian hospitality is famous, and travellers are often invited for tea. Standing among the ruins of an Assassin castle, with the mountains all around and the valley far below, is an experience you will not forget.