Taiwan's east coast does not have sand beaches in the postcard sense. Qixingtan, whose name means Seven Star Lake, is a long curve of grey pebbles on the Pacific side of Hualien, where the water goes from shallow to deep in a few steps and the waves arrive with real weight. Swimming is discouraged because of the undertow, and signs make that clear, but sitting on the stones with a drink while the sea rolls in is a very good way to end a ride. Behind you the Central Range rises almost straight from the coast, with cloud caught in the ridges, and on a clear morning the sun comes up out of the ocean in front of you.
The coast road here, Provincial Highway 11, runs south from Hualien through fishing villages, rice paddies, rocky headlands and long, easy bends with the ocean on one side. The surface is generally well kept, traffic is moderate, and there are plenty of viewpoints and small cafes. Scooters are everywhere, and Taiwanese drivers tend to overtake in ways that require attention, so keep your speed relaxed and watch the mirrors. It is a ride for taking slowly, with the smell of salt and wet stone in the air.
This is also the doorstep of Taroko Gorge, where the Liwu river has cut a deep marble canyon into the mountains to the north-west. The cliff road along the gorge is dramatic, but it has been closed repeatedly after earthquakes and rockfall, including after the strong earthquake of April 2024, so always check road and permit status before riding up. The area around Hualien is one of the most seismically active in Taiwan, and the local people take it calmly.
Hualien City has more than 350,000 people, so fuel, bike shops and hotels are easy, and the night market is the place to try local dishes such as wonton soup and sticky rice with peanuts. The best months for riding are October to May, with cooler weather and fewer crowds, while typhoons can hit between July and October and shut roads for days.