Perched on a cliff edge some three hundred metres above the gorge of the Litani river in southern Lebanon, Beaufort Castle, known in Arabic as Qalaat al-Chakif, has watched over the borderlands of the Levant for nearly a thousand years. The Crusaders took and fortified it in the twelfth century, and it was finally surrendered to Saladin in 1190 after a long siege. Later it was held by the Mamluks, rebuilt and repaired by local rulers, and in the twentieth century it became a fiercely contested military position, occupied by Palestinian fighters and then by the Israeli army from 1982 until its withdrawal from southern Lebanon in 2000. Its stones have been battered by everything from siege engines to modern artillery.
The view from the top is the thing. To the east and south the land falls away into the Litani valley, and on a clear day you can see Mount Hermon, often snow-capped, and the hills of northern Israel and the Golan. The Litani itself cuts a deep, winding gorge here before turning west toward the sea near Tyre. The countryside is rocky and dry, scattered with olive and tobacco fields and small villages, and in spring the hills turn green with wildflowers for a few short weeks.
A word of honesty is needed. Southern Lebanon has been the scene of repeated conflict, including heavy fighting in recent years, and the border area near the castle has been directly affected. Before even thinking of riding here, check the current travel advice from your government, which may well advise against all travel to this region, and be prepared for military checkpoints and restrictions. If and when it is safe, the roads from Nabatieh climb through hilly country with tight bends and variable surfaces, and the approach to the castle offers dramatic views.
Nabatieh, a large town about eight kilometres away, is where fuel, food and services are found. The local food is southern Lebanese: grilled meats, fresh bread, mezze and strong coffee. When conditions allow a visit, give yourself time to walk around the ruins and stand at the cliff edge above the river, because few castles anywhere sit on such a site. For now, though, this is a place to read about and respect, and to visit only when peace returns.