The road finishes in a car park at a lookout, and the lookout finishes in a cliff. Puʻu o Kila sits at the high end of Kōkeʻe State Park on Kauai, at about four thousand feet, and from the railing the land drops away in one great fold into Kalalau Valley, a steep green amphitheatre of ridges and fluted walls that runs out to the Pacific and the Nā Pali coast. Even on a clear morning, a white cloud can slide in and fill the valley in minutes, then clear again just as quickly, so patience is part of the stop.
Kalalau was once home to a community of Hawaiian farmers who grew taro in terraces on the valley floor and fished from the shore. Now it is empty, protected, and accessible only by a long coastal trail or by boat. The lookout is the only easy way to see it, and the shapes of the ridges, the waterfalls after heavy rain, and the sound of birds in the forest give the place a deep sense of remoteness. Native forest birds, including the bright red iiwi, live up here, in ʻōhiʻa trees.
The ride up is the great part. Starting at Waimea, the road goes along the rim of the canyon, with a series of lookouts, and then continues into the cool forest of Kōkeʻe. The surface is paved and in decent condition, with long climbs and tight curves, and traffic is often heavy with tour vans from late morning. Mist and rain are possible at any time, because these ridges are among the wettest places on Earth, and the temperature can be ten degrees cooler than at the coast. Wear a rain jacket and bring a warm layer.
Kekaha is about twenty kilometres back down the hill. A small lodge and a cafe near the park headquarters offer snacks and a hot drink, but opening times vary, so do not rely on them. The best time is early, when the sky is likely to be clear, and the winter months bring more rain and mud on the trails. Take care not to leave the road, as the cliffs are unfenced in places and the ground is crumbly.