Putbus is the odd one out on Rügen. It was not a fishing village that grew into a resort, but a deliberate planned town, laid out from 1810 by Prince Malte of Putbus, who wanted a classical residence that could compete with the grand capitals of Europe. Everything is white. The houses along the circular green known as the Circus are white, the theatre is white, the villas are white, and the town has long been called the White Town. After the grey of the East German years, it is a little startling to find such a polished set of buildings in a corner of the Baltic that is mostly reed and sand.
The prince's palace was demolished in the 1960s, which is a sad piece of history, but the park that surrounded it survives, with ancient trees, an orangery and winding paths, and it is worth an hour. The theatre has been restored, and in summer its stage hosts concerts and plays. You can also pick up the Rasender Roland, the narrow-gauge steam railway that has run from Putbus to the seaside resorts of Binz, Sellin and Göhren since the late nineteenth century, still puffing along on tracks that cross the road at several points. Listen for the whistle as you ride.
The riding on Rügen is flat and soft. The island has long straight roads lined with old trees, usually limes or maples, which meet overhead in places and create a green tunnel with dappled light. Traffic is thick in summer and the speed limits are low, but the scenery is lovely, with fields and reed beds and sudden glimpses of the sea. The surface varies, with the occasional stretch of old cobbles near small villages, and in July and August it is better to ride early, before the beach traffic begins.
Putbus has a few thousand residents and plenty of services, including fuel, supermarkets and a handful of cafés and restaurants. Bergen auf Rügen, the island's main town, is about eight kilometres away if you need a bigger shop. Local cooking leans on fish, with smoked herring and fried Baltic flounder in most places, and a sea buckthorn drink or ice cream that you will see in every shop and that tastes tart and slightly medicinal.
Late afternoon is lovely, with white walls catching the light and long shadows on the green.