Pula's Roman amphitheatre is the sixth largest in the world, and it stands right by the harbour, its limestone arches facing the sea. The Austro-Hungarian navy made it a major port in the nineteenth century, and the cranes of the shipyards still dominate the bay.
From here, the road leads north into the hills. The Istrian interior is a patchwork of vineyards, olive groves and truffle woods, with hill towns like Motovun, Grožnjan and Buzet standing on top of ridges. The roads are narrow and twisty, with bends, short climbs and wide views, and the surface is mostly good. Summer brings heat and crowds on the coast, and the best time is spring or autumn, when the countryside is green or golden. Wind, the bura, can blow hard on the coast in winter and affect riders on exposed roads.
Pula has more to offer than the arena. The Arch of the Sergii, a Roman triumphal arch, and the Temple of Augustus are in the old centre, and James Joyce taught English here for a few months in 1904 and 1905. The city has a good fish market, and the coast has rocky bays for swimming. The Brijuni islands, a national park, are a short boat ride away.
Fuel and food are easy in Pula, with stations on the main roads and many restaurants, and it is wise to fill up before leaving for the hills, where stations are scarce. Istrian food is excellent, including fresh fish, fuži pasta with truffles, and wines like Malvazija and Teran.
Look at the arena before you go. At dawn, with the first light on the stone, it is quiet and almost empty.