Above Selva in Val Gardena and the villages of Val Badia, the Puez-Odle massif shows the Dolomites at their most theatrical: the jagged spires of the Odle, or Geisler, piercing the sky like a row of broken teeth, and behind them the Puez plateau, a strange high desert of grey scree, layered rock and hidden lakes. The area is a nature park in South Tyrol and one of the nine components of the Dolomites World Heritage site, listed by UNESCO in 2009 for its exceptional landscapes and geology.
The Dolomites are the remains of ancient coral reefs and tropical seas, lifted up by the collision of continents and carved by ice and water into towers, walls and plateaus. On the Puez plateau, you can see the layers of rock like the pages of a book, recording millions of years of the earth's history. The valleys below are home to the Ladin people, who speak their own Romance language, Ladin, and have kept their traditions, from wood carving in Val Gardena to distinctive costumes and festivals. In summer, the meadows are full of flowers and cows, and in winter, the area is one of the most famous ski regions in the world.
For riders, the passes around the Puez-Odle massif are legendary. The Passo Gardena, at 2,121 metres, links Val Gardena with Val Badia, and the Passo Sella and Passo Campolongo complete the Sella Ronda, a loop around the Sella massif that is one of the classic motorcycle rides of the Alps. The roads are well maintained, with hairpins, steep climbs and spectacular views, but in summer, traffic can be heavy, with cars, buses, cyclists and other motorcyclists, and the authorities have discussed restrictions to reduce congestion and noise. Ride early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the best experience.
Selva and the other villages have fuel, restaurants, cafés and hotels, though prices can be high. Ladin and Tyrolean cuisine is hearty: try canederli, bread dumplings with speck or cheese, or schlutzkrapfen, half-moon ravioli filled with spinach and cheese, and finish with apple strudel. Weather in the mountains can change quickly, with afternoon thunderstorms in summer, and the passes can be closed by snow from autumn to spring.