San Glorio is a high pass on the border between Cantabria and Castile and León, a quiet, grassy saddle at 1,609 metres, and it gives access to the Liébana, the sheltered valley on the southern side of the Picos de Europa. The road climbs from the plateau of Palencia through bare, rolling country, with wide skies and few trees, then drops abruptly into green mountain valleys, a change so sudden it feels like crossing into another country. The sign at the top may be modest, but the view down into the Liébana is not.
The valley has a remarkable microclimate, sheltered from the Atlantic storms by the mountains and warm enough to grow oranges and vines. Potes, the main town, is a handsome cluster of stone houses and old towers on a river, with a lively market and a reputation for good eating. Cocido lebaniego, a hearty stew of chickpeas, cabbage and pork, is the local dish, and a strong grape spirit called orujo is poured after meals. Nearby, the Monastery of Santo Toribio keeps what is said to be the largest known fragment of the cross of Christ, and the pilgrim route to it draws thousands in years declared holy.
On a motorcycle the pass is a pleasure, with smooth tarmac, graceful hairpins and a pace that suits both the sporty and the relaxed. The northern descent is the more dramatic, with wide views of the Picos and of the green valley below. Weather changes quickly, fog and drizzle are common, and snow can close the pass in winter, though it is usually cleared quickly. Cattle and horses graze loose on the open slopes, so watch for them on blind curves.
Fuel is not sold at the pass, so fill up in Potes on the north side or in Guardo, twenty-nine kilometres away, on the southern side. Restaurants in the valley serve robust food at reasonable prices. A layer is useful at the summit, even in August.