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Prozor

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Prozor, often written Prozor-Rama, is the old centre of the Rama valley, a green pocket of northern Herzegovina that opens onto one of the most striking pieces of water in the country. The town stands near the head of Ramsko Jezero, a reservoir created in the 1960s when the Rama river was dammed. Below the dam wall the valley has lost its old villages, and as you ride along the shore you pass a monastery that stands on a little island in the lake, Šćit, the Franciscan house that is the spiritual heart of the Rama region.

This is a classic crossroads. Roads go north toward Jablanica and the Neretva, west toward the high plateau of Kupres and Livno, and southeast toward Mostar. For riders that means options, and the route from Prozor towards Livno is a strong one: it climbs out of the valley onto the open karst, with long, rolling views and little traffic. The surface is mixed. Some stretches are smooth and fast, while others show patching and frost damage that you want to see coming at speed. Mornings can be foggy near the water and clear sharply as the sun gets up.

The town itself has roughly ten thousand people in the wider municipality, which is enough for fuel, grocery shops and a few cafés around the centre. Prozor also carries wartime history, as the Rama valley saw fighting in the early 1990s, and you will see memorials and signs of reconstruction. It is best to be respectful and curious rather than hurried.

In terms of landscape, the lake is the reason to slow down. In calm weather it mirrors the steep hills around it, and the colour of the water shifts between jade and slate depending on the cloud. In late spring the slopes are fresh green and the apple and plum trees are in blossom, while in autumn the beech woods higher up turn copper. Winter brings snow on the Makljen pass to the north, so check conditions before relying on it.

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