Ljubljana is a small capital with a big reputation for charm, and much of that comes from the river. The Ljubljanica runs through the centre in a shallow curve, with cafes along both banks, willows trailing in the water and bridges at every few steps. The architect Joze Plecnik, who worked here for much of the first half of the twentieth century, shaped the embankments, the market colonnade and the bridges, and his work was listed by UNESCO in 2021 as part of a series of his buildings.
The Triple Bridge, a cluster of three crossings beside the Preseren Square, is the best known, with balustrades and lamp posts that give it a graceful, slightly theatrical look. A little downstream, the Dragon Bridge, from 1901, has fierce green dragons at its corners, and the legend is that the founder of the city killed a dragon here. The covered market along the river is where the locals shop, and the stalls sell cheese, honey, sausage and fruit.
The city centre is closed to most traffic, and the scale is human, so walking is the best way to see it. A funicular carries visitors up to the castle on its hill, where the view takes in the red roofs of the old town and, on a clear day, the Julian Alps and Kamnik Alps beyond. The bridges and river paths are lovely in the early evening, when the light is warm and the cafes fill up.
For riders, Ljubljana is a good base, and the Alps are close. The road north through the Karavanke tunnel leads to Austria, and Klagenfurt is a short ride beyond. Slovenia requires an electronic vignette for motorways, which you can buy online or at petrol stations before the border, and there are heavy fines for riding without one. Fuel is plentiful on the edge of the city, and food ranges from quick snacks to refined dining. Parking in the centre is limited, so use a garage on the outskirts or ask your hotel for advice. Spring and autumn are the best seasons.