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Prodănești - Pe Șanț

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"Pe Șanț" means on the ditch, and in Romanian hill country that word is nearly always a clue. A șanț is an earthwork, a trench or rampart, and the countryside of Sălaj holds many of them, from Roman-era frontier lines to medieval and prehistoric defences.

The landscape is gentle. Prodănești sits just outside Jibou, close to the Someș river, in low hills of orchard, pasture and scattered oak that fold toward the Meseș range. Jibou itself carries more history than its size suggests. The Wesselényi family built the castle here, and the town was the birthplace of Miklós Wesselényi, a nineteenth-century Hungarian-Transylvanian reformer who campaigned for the abolition of serfdom, and who was much admired and much persecuted in his day. The park by the castle later became a botanical garden, a green and slightly unexpected place that makes a decent break from the saddle.

The roads between Prodănești, Creaca and Jibou run in modest bends through farmland, and the rhythm is relaxed: a short climb, a shallow dip, a village with a church and a few dogs, then back into the fields. The surface changes without warning, so keep your eyes ahead and avoid the temptation to enjoy the view at speed. Traffic is light and mostly local, though tractors and horse carts appear without warning, particularly in harvest season. Spring blossom and golden autumn make the best backdrop, and in summer the heat sits heavily in the valleys by mid-afternoon.

For fuel and a meal, Jibou is the obvious choice, only three kilometres away, with stations, small supermarkets and cafés where you can try the local pastries or a bowl of bean soup in smoked bread. The hamlet has little to offer beyond a shop, so fill up beforehand. Spend a few minutes looking at the fold of the land, and you can begin to read where an old ditch might once have run.

Read it in a ride

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