Prizren lies where the Lumbardhi river pours out of the Šar Mountains, with the old town packed on both banks and a hilltop fortress, the Kalaja, keeping watch above. It is the most attractive city in Kosovo, and also one of the most layered. Ottoman mosques, an Orthodox church, a Catholic cathedral and a stone bridge crowd close together around the central square, and on summer evenings the whole place is out walking by the river. The population is large, well over a hundred thousand in the municipality, but the old centre feels almost village-sized.
The history is weighty. The Sinan Pasha Mosque, built in the early seventeenth century, dominates the square, and the arched stone bridge across the river is a defining image. In 1878 the League of Prizren met here, a key moment in the Albanian national movement. In the Middle Ages the town was a seat of the Serbian ruler Stefan Dušan, and the medieval Church of Our Lady of Ljeviš, with its frescoes, is part of the UNESCO listing of Kosovo's medieval monuments. For a few days in August, the Dokufest documentary film festival fills the cafes with film people, which gives the place an unusual energy.
The roads out of Prizren head in several directions, and all are interesting. Toward the mountains the valley road climbs through villages and orchards toward Šar Mountains National Park, with forest, rock and mountain pasture ahead. The surface is a mixture, often good on the main routes and poor on minor ones, and you need to watch for potholes, livestock and drivers who overtake generously. Weather in the mountains turns quickly, and snow lasts late. Spring and autumn are good for riding, and summer lunchtimes can be hot.
Practicalities are easy in a city this size. Fuel stations are on all main roads, the euro is the currency, and food is excellent, with grilled meat, flija pastry in some places, peppers, and strong coffee served everywhere. Carry your insurance documents for the border crossings, because they are checked, and check current requirements before travelling. Parking near the old town is limited, so leave the bike at your accommodation and walk the river lanes.