Prince George sits where the Nechako River meets the Fraser, in the middle of British Columbia, and it is the biggest city for hundreds of kilometres in any direction. It is a working town of about sixty-five thousand, built on forestry, with sawmills and pulp mills that sometimes give the air a distinct smell, and it has the practical, straightforward character of a place that supplies a vast northern region. After the long run from Jasper along the Yellowhead Highway, it is a place to take a deep breath and appreciate the services.
The Yellowhead route takes its name from a fur trader known as Tête Jaune, or Yellow Head, an Iroquois-Métis trapper who is said to have used the pass in the early 1800s. The highway runs west from Jasper through the Rockies past Mount Robson, which at 3,954 metres is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and then along the Fraser through Valemount and McBride before arriving here. The road is wide and well maintained, with long curves and excellent views, but wildlife, weather and distance all demand respect. Bears are often seen at the roadside, moose appear at dusk, and fuel stops can be far apart, so fill up whenever you pass a station.
Prince George began as a fur-trading post, Fort George, founded in 1807 by the explorer Simon Fraser, and grew when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway arrived in the early twentieth century. Today its Fort George Park, beside the river, has a small museum and a pleasant walk. Nearby, an ancient inland rainforest of cedar and hemlock, among the oldest of its type in the world, can be visited on a short trail a little way east.
In the city, you will find everything: fuel, large supermarkets, restaurants and motels. Hotel prices rise in summer when the highway is busy with tourists, and a booking is wise. Parking a motorcycle is easy.
The weather here is continental, with hot summers and cold winters, and snow can fall from October to April. The best time to ride is from June to September, when the days are long and light lingers until late evening. Early morning can be cold, so carry a warm layer, and enjoy the sense of space.