Presidio shares its river and most of its life with the Mexican town across the bridge. The Rio Grande runs along the southern edge, Ojinaga stands on the opposite bank, and the border crossing between them is the busiest thing in the area. West Texas is huge, and Presidio is a rare green strip in it, where the Rio Conchos joins the Rio Grande. This confluence, La Junta de los Rios, has been farmed for centuries, and the Spanish gave the place its name, which simply means fortress, after the military post that once stood here.
On the edge of town you can visit Fort Leaton, a large adobe trading post built in the 1840s by a former scalp hunter turned merchant and now a state historic site. The walls are thick, the courtyards are quiet, and the rooms tell the story of a frontier where trade, ranching and border politics all mixed. Presidio is also known for summer heat, regularly among the hottest places in Texas, so do your riding early and take water.
The road you want starts just west of town. Farm-to-Market Road 170, the River Road, follows the Rio Grande towards Lajitas, climbing and dropping over desert hills, with tight bends, steep grades and the famous Big Hill, which has made generations of riders grin. The scenery is raw: the river valley in a ribbon of green, then rock, ocotillo, and the Chinati and Chisos mountains in the distance. Cattle can wander onto the road, rock can fall after storms and the sun is intense, so ride with a clear mind and plenty of water. Spring and autumn are comfortable, summer is brutal and winter mornings can be surprisingly cold.
Presidio has about four thousand residents, and fuel, groceries, a few simple restaurants and motels are available, which is what the road ahead needs. The next large settlements are far apart, so take advantage of the services here and check your tank, tyres and water before heading toward Big Bend. A bridge crossing to Ojinaga is possible with the right papers, but that is a separate trip.