Predazzo is the largest village in the Val di Fiemme, and it has a surprisingly special place in the world of geology. The valley lies in Trentino, between the pale limestone Dolomites and the darker volcanic rock of the Latemar and Monzoni areas, and Predazzo sits on the line where these meet. Geologists have studied the rocks here since the early nineteenth century, and there is a small museum, the Museo Geologico delle Dolomiti, that explains how ancient seas, volcanoes and later uplift built the mountains. With about four thousand people, the village is large enough for fuel, supermarkets and several hotels.
The Val di Fiemme has its own history. For centuries it was governed by the Magnifica Comunità di Fiemme, a medieval community that managed the forests collectively, and its spruce was prized for violins; Stradivari is said to have chosen wood from this region. Today the valley is known for cross-country skiing, including the Marcialonga race, and for the long summers on the high pastures. The architecture is a mix of Alpine and Italian, with painted house fronts and church towers with onion roofs.
As a finish to the Rolle and Valles ride, Predazzo makes a very good landing. After the open meadows and hairpins of the passes, you come down through forest into a valley with a clear river and a lively main street. The road from Passo Rolle descends steadily, with curves that run out into easier stretches as you near the valley floor. The Valles Pass, at around 2,000 metres, is another gem, quiet and with less traffic than the better-known routes, though it can be rough in places after winter.
Food is straightforward and good. Try canederli, barley soup, local cheeses, and if you are lucky a plate of game with polenta. The evening air is cold enough for a jumper even in July. Early autumn brings golden larches and fewer people, which makes it a favourite season for riders who dislike crowds. Leave a night for Predazzo, and the next morning the Lagorai and Latemar will look like a different range.