Prašuma means primeval forest, and Janj is one of the few places in Europe where that word is literally true. In the hills above the Janj river, between Šipovo and Donji Vakuf in central Bosnia, a block of mixed beech, fir and spruce forest has survived without logging, its oldest trees reaching enormous heights and girths. Since 2021 it has been part of the World Heritage site of ancient beech forests of Europe, joining a chain of reserves from the Carpathians to the Pyrenees.
The forest itself is strictly protected and you cannot ride into it, but the surrounding country is wonderful riding territory. Roads climb from the valleys of the Vrbas and Pliva through farmland, meadows and forest onto high plateaus with long views over rolling green hills. The main routes between Jajce, Šipovo, Donji Vakuf and Bugojno are paved, with good curves and modest traffic, though surfaces can be rough and potholed in places. Smaller roads and forestry tracks turn to gravel quickly. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; winters are snowy at altitude, and summer can bring sudden thunderstorms.
The Janj river is a tributary of the Pliva, and both are known for their clarity and their trout. Downstream, the Pliva runs through a series of lakes and old wooden watermills before plunging over a waterfall into the Vrbas in the middle of Jajce, a town crowned by a medieval fortress where the last Bosnian king was crowned. The region carries the scars of the wars of the 1990s, and you may still see damaged buildings. Landmines remain in some remote areas, so stick to roads and marked paths.
The forest is home to brown bears, wolves, lynx and many bird species, including woodpeckers that thrive in the old trees. The dead wood left lying on the ground, which would be cleared in managed forests, supports a huge variety of insects and fungi. Visiting in the early morning, you may hear the forest waking up with a chorus of birdsong.
Donji Vakuf, about nine kilometres away, is the nearest town with fuel and basic services. Bugojno and Šipovo are larger, with more options for food and accommodation. Try local trout or a hearty Bosnian stew, and expect warm hospitality from people who are often curious about travellers on bikes.