Pragel is the pass that Swiss riders mention in a slightly lowered voice, because it is narrow. The road between the Muotathal and the Klöntal lake in canton Glarus tops out at 1,548 metres, and long stretches of it are barely one car wide, with passing places cut into the verge and a rule, understood by everyone, that the vehicle with the easier retreat backs up. It is a bike road more than a car road, and on a quiet weekday morning it is also one of the most rewarding in central Switzerland.
The climb from the Muotathal side goes up through damp forest and then steep meadow, with bends that tighten as the valley narrows and the Muota drops far below. At the top, the landscape changes into a bare, rocky plateau, with limestone cut into strange furrows by rainwater. This is karst country, a rock that water has hollowed out from beneath, and the grass between the boulders is full of small flowers in June. From the summit, the descent toward the Klöntal is steeper and more wooded, and the lake appears at the bottom like a green mirror.
The Klöntal side has a different mood. The lake lies in a glacial trough walled by steep slopes, and a lane runs along its shore past a small mountain inn at Richisau, which is the sort of place where hikers, cyclists and riders end up at the same table. Cheese is made in the huts on the high pastures all summer, and the herdsmen bring their cattle down in a procession each autumn.
Practical matters need respect. The road is closed in winter, usually from about November to May, and the opening dates depend on the snow. Large vehicles and trailers are not suitable, and on busy summer days the narrow sections can make progress slow, with queues of cars waiting at the passing places. Rain makes the surface slick and the verges soft, and cattle may be on the road, with their bells clanking in the mist. The best time is early morning in June, September or October.
Unteriberg and Muotathal are the nearest villages with services, and Glarus is the larger town on the eastern side. A cheese from one of the alpine dairies is a worthwhile thing to carry, if you have space in the luggage.