Nerpio is the place the road seems to forget. It lies in the far south-west of Albacete province, tucked against the Sierra de Segura and the Murcian border, in a high valley where the headwaters of the Taibilla and other streams gather. It has fewer than two thousand residents and one of the densest clusters of prehistoric rock paintings in Spain, dozens of shelters scattered through the surrounding crags. These are part of the Levantine and schematic traditions, painted in red and black, and covered by the same World Heritage listing as the painted caves of the Levante coast.
The approach is the main event. Whichever direction you come from, the roads climb through pine forest and over high, bare plateaux, with long straights and then a series of tight, rising bends as you drop toward the valley. The surface is mostly decent, but remote roads can have gravel and potholes, and the distances are greater than they look. There is very little traffic, and the sense of isolation is strong. Winter brings snow and frost, and even in spring the mornings are cold, so layers are essential. Summer is dry and clear, with brilliant light.
Prado del Tornero I is a short distance from the village. Nerpio has a few basic services, including a bar or two, but do not take it for granted, and arrive with a full tank. Yeste, about twenty-four kilometres away, is the next bigger town, and Moratalla is a long way further. The villages here serve the local farms with a few shops and one or two simple restaurants.
When you visit the shelters, go with a local guide if you can, because many are hard to find and the experience is much richer with someone who knows the stories. Respect the signs, keep to the paths, and above all do not touch the paint. You will be rewarded with the sort of silence that only a mountain village can offer, and a sky so clear that the stars at night seem close enough to count.