The Prachov Rocks are the most compact and dramatic part of the Bohemian Paradise, a rock city of sandstone towers, ravines and viewpoints packed into a forest a few kilometres from Jičín. Walking paths and stone steps lead between the pinnacles, some of which look like fingers, others like mushrooms, and from the top of the main viewpoint you look out over a sea of spruce and pine with rocks poking through like islands. A small mountain hut near the entrance serves walkers with simple food and drink.
The area was first opened to visitors in the nineteenth century, when the Romantic movement made wild rock scenery fashionable. The formations were made by erosion, as softer layers of sandstone wore away faster than harder ones, leaving columns and gaps. Moss, ferns and trees cling to every ledge, and in the shadows the temperature drops by several degrees. Climbers have used the rocks for generations, and the tradition of climbing on sandstone with ropes and knots, never with metal protection, is part of the area's identity. A small entrance fee covers the main paths, and the car park charges as well.
The riding is gentle. From Jičín the road runs northeast through farmland and then into forest, with easy bends and a good surface. This is a quiet area, with little through traffic, and the slow pace suits the landscape. It is a good place to stop, park and walk for an hour, as the terrain makes it hard to appreciate from the saddle. Wear boots rather than motorbike shoes if you plan to climb the steps, because the stone can be slippery.
Jičín itself is a handsome town with a large square lined with arcades, and a history tied to Wallenstein, who made it the capital of his duchy in the 1620s and rebuilt much of it. It is also the home of Rumcajs, a much-loved fictional robber from Czech children's stories, and statues and souvenirs of him appear everywhere. The town has fuel, supermarkets and many cafes, so you can resupply easily.
The forest can be damp and cool, even in summer. The best light comes in the late afternoon, when the low sun slants between the rocks and lights the pale stone.