Potrerillos is the point where the vineyards of Mendoza give way to the real mountains. The village sits beside a reservoir on the Mendoza River, about thirty-five kilometres from the city, and from here the road to Chile begins to climb. It is a green, irrigated place surrounded by dry brown hills, a contrast that makes the lake look very blue. In summer, locals come here to swim, sail and eat grilled meat, and the lakeside has an unpretentious holiday feel.
The road is Ruta 7, the old international route that links Mendoza with Santiago via the Paso de los Libertadores. It follows the river upstream in a canyon of tawny rock and tunnels, and it has been a major trade route since colonial times, when mule trains carried goods across the Andes. In the nineteenth century, General San MartÃn used a route in this region to lead his army across the mountains to liberate Chile, an epic undertaking that shaped South American history. The railway, now mostly abandoned, once ran here, and you can still see old bridges and stations along the valley.
For a rider, the road above Potrerillos is a real pleasure. The surface is generally good, the bends are wide and the scenery grows more dramatic with every kilometre. The air gets thinner, the colours more intense, and by the time you reach Uspallata you are in a high desert of reds, yellows and greys. Traffic includes heavy trucks heading for the border, so be careful on blind curves and when passing. The weather can change quickly, with wind and cold arriving fast above two thousand metres, and snow in winter can close the road.
Fuel is easiest in Mendoza before you leave, and again in the village of Uspallata farther along, so carry some margin. Mendoza itself has everything, including excellent wine, and many riders start here with a hearty breakfast of medialunas and coffee. Local specialities include grilled beef, empanadas and the famous Malbec, which is wonderful in the evening but not on the road.
Early morning is the best moment, with cool air and soft light on the rock. In summer, the heat in the lowlands builds quickly, and the mountains are the best escape.