Porto stacks itself up the north bank of the Douro like a deck of cards, with the tiled houses and church towers tumbling down toward the river and the iron arch of the Dom Luís bridge holding it all together. The city has about a quarter of a million people, a lot of granite, and a love of tripe and francesinha, a sandwich of steak, sausage and ham covered with melted cheese and a beer-and-tomato sauce. The Ribeira district along the water is a World Heritage site and a good place to wander, if you do not mind the steep, polished cobbles and the crowds.
Port wine is the reason for the name and the money. It is made in the Douro Valley upriver and aged in the lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia, across the water from Porto, where the barrels sit in cool warehouses and the big names have their signs on the roofs. The British had a large hand in its history, and some of the families still carry English surnames. A tasting in a lodge is easy to arrange, though perhaps best saved for the end of a riding day.
The Douro valley itself is the draw for riders. The N222 follows the river upstream through terraced vineyards that climb the steep schist slopes in neat lines, with the road hugging the bank or climbing in short bends to give views over the water. It has been named in magazines as one of the best driving roads in the world, and traffic is light outside harvest and peak summer. Autumn brings red and gold to the vines, and spring brings green. Summer afternoons are fiercely hot in the valley.
From Porto, the first part of any ride is urban, with tram lines, wet cobbles and tight junctions that need care, especially after rain. The motorway east along the Douro is quick, and many riders use it to reach the valley before returning on slower roads. Bom Jesus do Monte, to the north near Braga, is a pilgrimage church at the top of a grand baroque staircase, worth the detour for the view.
Fuel is no problem in a big city, and stations line the ring road. Most Portuguese motorways are tolled, some with electronic gates, so it helps to know your system. Be careful on the slick stone of the old town, and leave the bike in a secure car park rather than on the street.