Porto, on Corsica's west coast, is a small harbour village at the head of a gulf, and almost all of its charm lies in what surrounds it. A sixteenth-century Genoese tower stands on a rocky headland above the marina, one of the many watchtowers the Genoese built around the island to warn of pirate raids. A long eucalyptus grove, planted in the last century, shades the road down to the water. Behind the village, red granite mountains climb steeply toward the interior, and the whole gulf is ringed by cliffs that fall into the water.
Boats leave from the marina for the Scandola nature reserve, a wild peninsula of volcanic rock accessible only by sea or on foot, and for the tiny fishing hamlet of Girolata, which has no road to it at all. The trips are the best way to understand the coast, with sea caves, ospreys and underwater life, and the water is clear and rich. The reserve was established in 1975, and the Gulf of Porto and Scandola together became a World Heritage Site in 1983.
For a rider, Porto is a hinge between two great roads. South, the D81 climbs through the Calanques de Piana in a series of hairpins and cliffs. North, it winds up and over the Col de Palmarella, with views of the Gulf of Girolata, before descending towards Calvi. Inland, a side road climbs from the village of Ota, a few kilometres up the valley, into the Spelunca gorge, where old Genoese stone bridges cross the stream, and on to the mountain village of Evisa and the Aïtone forest of tall Corsican pines. All these roads are narrow and slow, so budget time and expect to drive carefully. The best light is early morning or late afternoon, and summer is hot and crowded, so spring and autumn are the best seasons.
Services are limited but adequate for the area. Porto has restaurants, a few shops and cafés, and seafood is the thing to eat, with fresh fish grilled over a wood fire, and perhaps a plate of Corsican charcuterie and cheese. Fuel is the main uncertainty, so do not rely on small stations. Calvi, about thirty-four kilometres to the north, is the sure option, and Ajaccio lies to the south. A cold drink on the marina and a look at the evening light on the cliffs is a fine way to end a day.