The Portachuelo de Llanganuco is a notch in the ridge of the Cordillera Blanca at 4,767 metres, and the road that climbs to it, a gravel track of tight switchbacks, is one of the high points of any Peruvian ride, in every sense. It runs from the valley of the Santa river, past two lakes, and up a steep, bare slope to a pass between giant peaks. From the top, the view is of glaciers and snowfields, and the great mass of Huascarán, at 6,768 metres the highest mountain in Peru, looms to the south. The air is thin, the wind is cold and the sky is an extraordinary deep blue.
The pass lies in Huascarán National Park, a World Heritage Site, and the mountains around it are among the most heavily glaciated in the tropics. The glaciers are retreating fast, and a visit is a reminder of how much is changing. At the bottom of the valley lies Yungay, a town with a tragic past: in 1970, an earthquake shook an enormous mass of ice and rock from the north face of Huascarán, and the avalanche buried the old town, killing thousands. The site is now a memorial, and the new town was built nearby. It is worth a quiet visit.
The ride is a serious one. The road is gravel, steep and narrow, with sharp hairpins and big drops, and the surface is often loose, rutted or wet. At 4,700 metres, the engine loses power, and the rider loses concentration, so go slowly and rest often. Altitude sickness is a real risk, with headaches, nausea and shortness of breath, so spend a few days at altitude in Huaraz first, drink water and descend if you feel unwell. Weather changes fast, and snow and hail are possible at any time of year. The road is best ridden in the dry season, from May to September, in the morning.
Yungay, about eighteen kilometres below, has a few stations, and Caraz and Huaraz have more, so start with a full tank. A small entrance fee is charged for the national park, so carry some cash. Take warm clothing, sun protection and plenty of water, and be prepared to turn back if the weather closes in. The view from the top is among the finest on the continent, and it is earned.