Under the shallow water off Port-Conty lie the remains of villages that were built on stilts more than five thousand years ago, and you will see none of them from the shore. The site, near Saint-Aubin-Sauges on the north-western side of Lake Neuchâtel, is one of the many locations in the UNESCO listing of prehistoric pile dwellings around the Alps. Archaeologists have found posts, tools, pottery and remains of food preserved in the lake mud, painting a picture of Neolithic and Bronze Age communities who farmed, fished and built their houses along the water's edge.
What you do see is a lovely stretch of lake, with reed beds, small harbours and the long blue line of the water stretching toward the Alps on clear days. Saint-Aubin and Gorgier are small wine villages on the slopes of the Béroche, with vineyards running down to the lake and old stone houses lining the streets.
The road along the north shore between Neuchâtel and Yverdon is pleasant but busy, with steady traffic, frequent villages, speed limits that change often and Swiss enforcement that is not known for its mercy. The real fun begins when you turn uphill into the Jura. Roads climb steeply through vineyards and forest toward Provence and Mauborget, with tight bends, great views back over the lake and the cliffs of the Creux du Van not far away, a vast natural amphitheatre of limestone that rewards a walk if you have the time. Remember the vignette if you join the motorway.
For practical stops, Saint-Aubin-Sauges has the basics, and Bevaix and Estavayer-le-Lac across the water are bigger. Neuchâtel, further east, is a full-sized town with every service. The local wines are worth tasting, especially the light whites made from Chasselas and the Oeil-de-Perdrix rosé, though of course not before riding.
The lake changes colour constantly, from silver in the morning to deep blue at noon and pink at sunset, and the smell of reed, water and vines is lovely on a summer evening. Stand by the shore at Port-Conty and think about the people who stood here thousands of years ago, watching the same light on the water from their houses on stilts.