Port Alberni sits at the head of the Alberni Inlet, a long, narrow fjord that reaches almost halfway across Vancouver Island from the west coast. This geography has shaped its history: it became a major centre for logging, sawmills and fishing, and the smell of the pulp mill has long been part of daily life. In 1964, the great Alaska earthquake sent a tsunami up the inlet, and the funnelling effect amplified the waves, which flooded parts of the town. Today, the waterfront has a harbour quay with shops, cafés and boat tours down the inlet.
The ride in from the east is one of the highlights of the island. Highway 4 passes through Cathedral Grove, in MacMillan Provincial Park, where ancient Douglas firs, some hundreds of years old, tower over the road. It is worth stopping to walk among the giants, but parking is tight and the road is busy, so be careful. Beyond, the highway climbs over the shoulder of Mount Arrowsmith before dropping steeply into the Alberni Valley, with tight bends and heavy truck traffic.
West of town, the road follows Sproat Lake, long home to giant Martin Mars water bombers that fought forest fires across the province, before heading into the mountains towards the Pacific coast. This next stretch is narrow, winding and remote, with few services and limited mobile coverage.
Port Alberni is therefore the last major service centre before Tofino and Ucluelet. It has fuel and food in abundance, so fill up, eat and check the bike before continuing. The weather can change dramatically between here and the coast, with rain and fog common, so pack your waterproofs on top.