Lake Geneva, which the locals call the Leman, is the largest lake in western Europe, and its southern shore, curving between Geneva and the French border, is where the river Rhone leaves the water. The little places of Corsier-Port and Anieres lie on the left bank, among villas, vineyards and gardens that slope down to the water, and they are among the most elegant addresses in the canton. The French shore across the lake rises into the mountains of Chablais, and on a clear day the whole range of the Mont Blanc can be seen to the south-east, a white line above the water.
The prehistoric pile dwellings that give this stretch its place on the UNESCO list lie in the shallow water near the shore, and they date back to the Bronze Age, about three thousand years ago. As elsewhere, they are only seen underwater or in museum displays. On land, the interest is in the villages, with their old stone houses, little harbours and lakeside promenades. The Mouettes Genevoises, small yellow ferries, cross the harbour in the city, and the lake steamers of the Compagnie Generale de Navigation are a pleasure on a sunny day.
The ride along the shore road is easy and pleasant. It runs from the city past Cologny and Corsier to Hermance, close to the French border, with views of the lake through gaps in the hedges. It is a quiet road, but with a speed limit, many cyclists and plenty of cameras, so slow riding is the rule. Beyond the villages, the road climbs into the hills of the Genevan countryside, where vineyards and fields run toward the Jura, and the quiet lanes are a pleasure. The wind known as the bise, a cold north-east wind, can blow strongly in winter, while the vent, a warm south-west wind, brings rain.
Versoix and Geneva have fuel at several stations, and there are cafes in the villages. Switzerland is expensive, so a coffee on a terrace is a small luxury, but the lake and the light make it worthwhile. A Swiss motorway vignette applies for the autoroutes, and crossing into France for fuel is a common way of saving money.