Think of the frontier of Roman Dacia not as a wall but as a net. In the hills of Sălaj, north of the town of Zalău, the Romans stretched a fine mesh of watchtowers, small forts and earthen barriers across the ridges, all centred on the great fortress of Porolissum, which controlled the most important pass from the province into the lands of the free Dacians. Popeni, a village near Jibou, sits near one of the outer strands of that net: at Dumbravă, a spot on the edge of a wood, the remains of a tower are part of the Dacian frontier on the World Heritage list. You will see a bump in the ground and a lot of grass, and that is all the more reason to use your imagination.
Porolissum itself, at Moigrad, about half an hour south, is the place to go to see what the frontier really looked like. The stone fort has been partly rebuilt, with its main gate, walls and towers, and around it lie the remains of the town, an amphitheatre and the customs post where goods entering the province were taxed. The site sits on a hilltop with sweeping views, and it is one of the best Roman sites in Romania.
The area around Popeni is classic Sălaj countryside: low hills, meadows and woods, plum orchards and small villages. In late summer, the plums are harvested and many of them end up being distilled into țuică or pălincă, the plum brandy that is the drink of hospitality throughout Transylvania. The roads are quiet and narrow, winding over the hills between villages, with asphalt of varying quality. The main road from Zalău to Jibou and on to Baia Mare is busier and faster, with long bends and a few overtaking opportunities. As always in rural Romania, carts, cattle and dogs are part of the scenery.
Jibou, about six kilometres away, is the nearest town with fuel, shops and restaurants. Zalău, the county capital, is a little further south and has everything you need, including a good county museum with finds from Porolissum. Try a plate of fresh cheese with polenta and sour cream, and enjoy the slow pace of the countryside, where time seems to move a little more gently than in the city.