Pogradec lies at the south-western corner of Lake Ohrid, with mountains rising steeply behind and the water stretching away toward North Macedonia. Ohrid is one of the oldest lakes in Europe, deep and very clear, and it holds fish found nowhere else, including a famous species of trout. The lake is shared between Albania and North Macedonia, and the border runs through the middle of the water, so from the Pogradec promenade you can see the opposite shore on a clear day, with its lights twinkling after dark.
The town itself was a sleepy lakeside spot, and now has a long boulevard lined with cafes, a pebble beach, and hotels that fill up in July and August when Albanians and Kosovars come to cool off. There is not a lot of formal history to see, though a short ride to the Lin peninsula brings you to the remains of an early Christian church with mosaic floors, built in the sixth century, and the village there has a lovely, quiet setting among olive trees.
For a rider, the pleasure is in the setting and the road around the lake. A route along the shore toward Tushemisht passes springs bubbling out of the rock, then climbs into the hills with views across the water, and the road toward Korçë climbs through oak woods and farmland with some smooth, curving stretches. Surfaces vary, and cars can be unpredictable, so keep a margin on blind corners. Much of the traffic is light outside the high summer.
Pogradec has all the fuel and food you need, with stations around the edge of town and plenty of cafes serving grilled fish. A cold beer and a plate of fresh fish on the waterfront is a fine ending to the day.
The best months are May, June and September, when the water is warm, the air is clear and the crowds are smaller.