On a low cliff above the sea on Ibiza's south-west coast stand the foundations of some of the oldest buildings on the island. The Phoenician settlement of sa Caleta was founded around the eighth or seventh century BC, and for about a century it was a small trading post, with rectangular stone houses laid out along narrow streets, a few metres from the water. The inhabitants worked iron, a sign of their sophistication, and traded with the mainland and North Africa. Around 600 to 550 BC the village was abandoned, and its people, it seems, moved to the harbour of Ebusus, which became the main town. UNESCO included the site in its Ibiza listing of 1999.
The spot itself is wild and beautiful, with rocky coast, pines clinging to the clifftop and clear blue-green water below. A walk among the ruins takes only a short time, but the setting is special, and on a calm day you will see only a few other visitors. Not far to the south-west, the strange rock of Es Vedrà rises from the sea, an island that has attracted legends for centuries. The flat salt pans of Ses Salines, to the south-east, have been worked since Phoenician times and are home to flamingos in the cooler months.
The roads in this part of Ibiza are narrow and twisting, with plenty of short climbs, blind bends and little traffic out of season. The surface is good on the main roads, rougher on the small tracks to the coves. In July and August, the island is crowded, and every cove has its queue of cars, so spring, early summer and autumn are better. In the wind, the pines creak and the sea smells of salt and resin, and the light in the late afternoon is warm and golden.
Sant Josep de sa Talaia, the nearest village, has fuel and some shops, and the larger towns of Ibiza and Sant Antoni lie about ten to thirteen kilometres away, with everything you might need. Bring water when you visit the ruins, because there is little shade, and wear shoes with a good grip, as the rocks can be slippery. A swim after your visit is a fine way to cool off, and a plate of grilled fish at one of the beach restaurants is a decent reward.