Plitvice is sixteen lakes arranged in a staircase, linked by waterfalls and bordered by beech and fir forest, all coloured an unreal turquoise by the minerals in the water. The lakes form because the water is rich in calcium carbonate, which settles out as travertine, or tufa, on moss and plants, building natural dams that grow slowly over the centuries. It is a living process, which is why the park is protected, and why visitors have to keep to the wooden walkways that wind across the water. UNESCO listed it in 1979, and it is today Croatia's most visited natural site.
The park has a darker history too. In March 1991, a clash at Plitvice between Croatian police and Serb forces is often counted as one of the first incidents of the Croatian War of Independence, and the area was occupied for several years. The old hotels were damaged, and it took time to recover. Nowadays the park is peaceful again, with busy visitor centres, electric boats on the big lake and a small train. Bears, wolves and lynx live in the forests around, though the visitors will mostly see ducks, fish and butterflies. The film series of Winnetou, based on German western novels, was partly shot here in the 1960s.
For riders, the lakes are on the main road between Zagreb and the Dalmatian coast, which makes them a classic stopping place. The roads around are good, with moderate curves through forested hills, and the nearby Lika plateau offers open, empty country with long views and sudden changes in weather. On busy summer days, the car parks and entrances fill early, so arrive at opening time or late in the afternoon. In winter, the lakes freeze and the waterfalls turn to ice, and the park is quiet and beautiful, though some paths close.
The label places the nearest settlement on the Bosnian side, but most visitors approach from Croatia, where Korenica, a small town near the park, has fuel and food. Roadside stalls sell roast lamb and suckling pig, and a plate of cheese and cured ham goes well with a coffee. Bring a rain jacket, because the weather can change quickly, and wear shoes with a good grip for the damp boards.