Pleasant Bay sits at the foot of a steep, forested slope on the western edge of Cape Breton Island, where the Cabot Trail climbs and dips along the Gulf of St. Lawrence. A small fishing village, it has a harbour, a few houses scattered along the shore and a view of the open water that is often full of whales. Pilot whales come close to the coast in summer, and boat trips from the harbour take visitors out to see them, with minke and sometimes fin whales as well.
The roots of the community are Acadian and Scottish. Gaelic was spoken here until recently, and the music of the island, fiddle tunes and step dancing, is a living tradition, with ceilidhs and kitchen parties held in summer. To the south, you reach the Acadian villages around Cheticamp, where French is the first language, and the hooked rug tradition is a local craft. The mix of cultures on such a small piece of coast is one of the pleasures of the place, and you hear it in the names on the mailboxes.
The riding is the star. The Cabot Trail is one of the best-known motorcycle roads in Canada, a loop of about three hundred kilometres around the Cape Breton Highlands, with the Atlantic on one side and the mountains on the other. North of Pleasant Bay the road climbs over MacKenzie Mountain, with long, open bends, steep grades and sudden views of the sea, and then drops back down to the coast. South, French Mountain climbs to a plateau of stunted forest and bog. The surface is generally good, though frost heaves are common, and fog can roll in without warning. In October, the autumn colours are among the best in eastern Canada, but traffic is heavy, and many businesses close by mid-month.
Fuel is limited here, so fill up in Cheticamp or Ingonish before the mountains, and carry a spare if you plan to go off the main road. A few small restaurants and cafes serve fresh seafood, and chowder is a good bet. The national park charges a fee, which is collected at the entrances, and a pass is required.