Plau am See sits at the western end of the Plauer See, the third-largest lake in Mecklenburg after the Müritz and the Schweriner See, in the heart of the lake district that stretches across the north-east of Germany. The town of nearly six thousand has a small old centre, a harbour, and a lift bridge over the river Elde that is a local landmark, and it is a sensible stop for fuel, ice cream and a swim. Malchow, about fifteen kilometres to the east, has seven thousand people and sits on an island between two lakes, joined to the shore by an old swing bridge.
The lake district was left behind by the glaciers, which scooped out hundreds of basins and left ridges of sand and gravel between them, so that the country is a patchwork of water, reedbeds, pine and beech woods, and flat farmland. Many of the lakes are linked by canals and rivers, popular with houseboat holidaymakers in summer, and the shores are lined with campsites and small beaches. The water is mostly clean and fairly warm in July and August, and local swimmers use the shallow public beaches, some with a small fee in season.
For a rider, this is easy, restful country. The roads here are flat and mostly straight, lined with old avenues of lime and chestnut trees, with the lake appearing now and again through the trunks, and there is little traffic outside the holiday months. The surface can be rough in places, with patches of brick or cobbles in villages, and the avenues mean heavy shade and wet leaves in autumn. Nothing here is thrilling, but the light and space are the reward, and the long straight stretches suit a relaxed day with swimming stops.
Birdlife is rich: cranes gather in autumn, sea eagles nest near some of the lakes, and cormorants and herons are common on the shoreline. For food, smoked fish is the local speciality, along with fried fish rolls and, in autumn, game and mushrooms. Wasps and mosquitoes can be annoying near the water on summer evenings. Fuel is available in Plau and Malchow, but the roads between have few stations.