Plastun is a fishing and logging settlement of about six thousand people on the coast of the Sea of Japan, in the northern part of Primorsky Krai, and it is the doorway to the Sikhote-Alin Nature Reserve. The reserve, founded in the 1930s, was created to protect the sable and later became one of the key refuges of the Amur tiger. Much of it lies in the mountains behind the settlement, and the coastline below it is a long strip of rocky headlands, pebble beaches and river mouths, backed by forest that comes down almost to the water.
The ride up the coast from Dalnegorsk is long, quiet and rewarding. The road is a mix of reasonable asphalt and rough patches, with gradients that come in short, steep bursts as it crosses spurs from the mountains, and corners that tighten on the descents to river valleys. Traffic is light, apart from the occasional logging truck, and there are few places to stop for services, so plan fuel carefully. Summer is warm and wet, with fog and drizzle; autumn is the best season, with dry days and spectacular colour. Winter brings snow, ice and strong winds, and the road may be hard going.
In Plastun itself, you will find shops, a few cafes, a petrol station and basic accommodation, enough to rest and refuel. Kamenka, the last sizeable village to the south, is about forty kilometres back and smaller than you might expect, so fill the tank here before heading on to Terney. Local fish, especially salmon in season and smoked fish at the market, is the thing to try, and the tea is strong and hot.
The reserve is not a place you can ride into, but its edge gives a feel for what is protected. Tigers, bears, lynx and sika deer all live in the forests, and the rivers carry salmon in the autumn run, drawing eagles and, now and then, brown bears. Even from the road you may notice the quality of the forest, with Korean pine and oak, vines winding through the trees, and ferns in the shade. Watch for animals at dusk and dawn, keep your speed moderate, and leave the engine off for a minute when you stop, because the quiet is worth hearing.